Yamamoto Teruji'S New Book: Making Orders With Life, Making Costumes

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< p > the concept of retirement does not exist for Yamamoto Teruji who opposes everything and likes change.

He had long thought of his ideal state of being dead, "when I was making a target=" _blank "href=" //www.sjfzxm.com/ "> clothes < /a >, I fell suddenly.

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< p > compared with "a target=" _blank "href=" //www.sjfzxm.com/ "designer" /a ", Yamamoto Teruji prefers to describe herself as a" dress maker ". Today, when the computer design is becoming more and more popular, he hopes that the a target=" _blank "href=" target= "> clothing industry can insist on using craftsmanship, and his company still uses full manual edition, because he thinks that the hand can give clothes the temperature and vitality, and some beautiful lines can only be finished by hand.

The designer, who has been labeled "rebel" by the outside world, has an adherence to and obsession with traditional values. This contradiction shows a gorgeous and charming effect on him, just like his scissors, which cuts off countless avant-garde works.

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The reason why Yamamoto Teruji and his Japanese partners got the peak position at that time was that they destroyed the traditional fashion language system in Europe and America, and formed an alternative "anti fashion" style. P

A reporter once asked in an interview, "if you don't become a fashion designer, what kind of person will you choose to be?"

Yamamoto Teruji said, "I will probably become a prisoner in prison.

Because of my inborn rebellion and anger, I have the spirit of inmates.

I am anti social and anti human.

Fashion design provides double opportunities for releasing the pressure and self expression for the marginal youth who love extremes and dislikes the golden mean. And he also unwittingly becomes the representative of "Japanese style" - a force born and growing up in the culture of destruction and reconstruction after the war.

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< p > > "design is not additive but subtraction philosophy", "I want women to wear men's clothes", "I am only interested in the pient women's backs". These "anti fashion" pioneering ideas are probably the core of Yamamoto Teruji's adherence. This view comes from the memory of childhood, and his mother is a tailor. At that time, Japan's status was low, and the employer's home could not even go to the front door.

This led to his love for and hatred of "making clothes" and his understanding of women, and became the source of his rebellious thoughts that insisted on challenging the inherent cognition of society. He also hoped that his clothes would enable women to escape the definition of "feminization" determined by men, and to express their feelings to women in work, especially mothers, "the backs of women who are leaving will not only make me sad but also make me feel incomparable beauty.

There seems to be a wound that is hard to heal in my heart, like shouting, "ah, don't go!"

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< p > in fact, it is very difficult to define Yamamoto Teruji and his design style. Although it has passed through the past few years, he is still a group of impenetrable fog, with ever-changing forms. If we have to use one word to describe it, it is "change". He is always seeking and pursuing change. The only constant change in his decades of design career is his change.

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＜p＞　　外间在总结山本耀司设计风格的时候喜欢用三个关键词：黑色、Oversize和不对称剪裁，尽管这些概念确实是山本耀司引发的流行，但是他也不遗余力地在余下的日子用掌控更多更丰富的颜色和流线型的剪裁来推翻自己建立的概念；他在欧美取得成功之后被打上了“日本设计师”的烙印，因此直到1994年之前，他都拒绝使用和服等传统的日本＜a target="_blank" href="//www.sjfzxm.com/"＞服饰＜/a＞元素，他希望他能更深层地表现出血液中的日本情愫，而不是用外在的概念和风格；因为曾经被冠以“剪裁之王”的称号，在2012-2013年的秋冬时装发布会上，他决定干脆不要剪裁，只用一块布包裹做主题，脱掉衣服扔到地板上，仍然是一块完整的布……

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< p > he bluntly: "I have given myself a difficult problem."

But he enjoys such difficulties and challenges, and gives the world and himself problems. It is the secret of his strong creative power and the joy he finds from life.

In his book "making clothes", he never disguised his childish voice and repeated loudly: "I object to everything.

Oppose, oppose and oppose.

He objects to everything that is fixed and molded, including those who oppose himself in the past, because in the past, they represent the concept of being solidified, and he always focuses on the future, the future with the possibility of unlimited change.

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