The Basic Structure Of The Collar And The Basic Pattern.

Basic structure and basic pattern details

　　首先，展平纸样，描绘驳头造型线，串口线延长过翻折线，与过颈侧点的翻折线平行线相交于B点，描绘轮廓线；以翻折线为对称轴，作B点的对称点A；过A点向上作翻折线的平行线，再在此平行线上，从上平线向上取定量10厘米，过点作垂线，长3～4厘米(视领座高低及面料的特性而定，通常以领座高加0.5～1厘米)，标为C点，连接AC为领底线的辅助线，可见领底线曲弧度是由AC与翻折线延长相交的夹角所决定，此夹角大，领底线曲弧度就大，反之就小，它们是成正比关系；从A点向上测取前后领圈线的长度，过点向左作AC的垂线，为领中线，取领高6～7厘米。

Depict

The contour line is 1/3 centimeters below the bottom line, 0.5 centimeters in diameter, and the outer edge contour of the collar is drawn, and the intersection between the collar and the center line is vertical.

Replicate the structure of the collar and make the paper pattern of the collar base as the operating pattern of the change design of the collar structure.

On this pattern, a contrast line between the counterpoint and the fold line of the neck turning point is marked.

Secondly, the relationship between the curvature of the bottom line and the contour of the outer edge is generally between the 2.5-3 collar of the collar collar and the 3.5-4.5 height of the eversion. The difference is between 1-1.5 cm.

The basic structure of the collar is based on the height design of the general collar and the outer collar. The relationship between the collar line, the collar, the outline of the outer edge and the curve of the rear collar is shown in Figure three.

C points over the neck side to the back neck point D is equal to the collar line EF; AG is the upturn effect line, which is equal to the outer contour line AB.

In this way, the collar can be folded according to the design requirements, which is the principle of achieving the ideal folding effect - AB=AG.

some

It requires more ectropion turnover, that is, lapel collar, especially those used for clothing such as overcoats.

With the increase of ectropion, the difference between the height of the collar and the height of the collar is increased. The difference is usually more than 3 centimeters or even more, when the outer contour of the collar is lengthened.

As shown in Fig. four, we can see from this graph that the increase in the number of ectropion of the collar collar requires a corresponding increase in the length of the outer contour line to meet this change.

Analysis shows that the contour line of the collar is attached to the surface of the back and shoulders. With the increase of the height of the eversion, the contour line of the collar is moved downward, and the tear appears on the shoulder.

It can be seen that if the outer edge of the collar is cut and expanded, the contour line of the outer edge can be increased, and the curvature of the collar line will also increase.

As shown in Figure five.

In the example, the hallux valgus line, AG, increases with the distance from the back neck point to the neck side point, and the arc length increases accordingly.

In operation

The shear line is set in the middle. After the shear is expanded, the curvature of the collar is increased, and the BF of the middle line is also tilted, so that the contour of the outer edge of the collar is increased and AB=AG is satisfied.

In this way, we can find the basis of the curvature of the bottom line and the contour of the outer edge with the change of the turning amount.

In the specific design, as long as we accurately measure the AG length of the hallux valgus line and check the fitness relationship with the contour line of the collar, the relationship between the curve of the collar line and the contour line of the collar can be accurately handled through the operation of the pattern cutting and expanding.